Wednesday, August 8, 2007
Mystery message
While walking near an old cannery, we found these mysterious symbols on the sidewalk. Were they ancient Athabascan, pictographs from the Dena'ina, or Russian shorthand? Thoughtful examination showed that the markings were left by seagulls with muddy feet.
Room with a view
Captain Cook Inlet
Father Makary
Father Makery was the parish priest at Holy Assumption until 1991. He remembers accompanying the relics of St. Herman, the first American saint in the Russian Orthodox Church, when they were moved from Kodiak Island to Kenai. Father Makary says that some relics have traveled by land and others by sea, but the relics of St. Herman were the first to be transported by air; he flew in a helicopter.
The Russians came and stayed
Glacier face
The glaciers are calving
Grandma and Grandpa meet Yogi
Bear Poop
On the Kenai we found beautiful campgrounds near glaciers, lakes, and waterfalls; (the usual Alaska stuff). Although we've seen moose and black bear and Dall sheep and Stone sheep and Rocky Mountain big horn sheep and elk and bison and caribou, the wily brown bear has still escaped our inspection. That is why this pile of bear scat (shit) was very exciting. If you look carefully, bits of a plastic bag and vegetable matter are evident. These suggest that this enormous pile of scat comes from an enormous brown bear with a taste for sandwiches (heavy on the mustard) and berries. We loitered nearby with cheese and crackers, but again missed seeing the bear.
Fireweed
After two days in the wilderness, the showers and Laundromat stopped calling our names and began hollering. We left St. Elias and stayed for a night in an RV den to meet our basic hygiene needs, then returned to the road. Heading west and south for the Kenai peninsula, there were mountains, glaciers, and flowers everywhere. We wondered if the Alaska department of tourism had carefully arranged Fireweed to decorate every mountain vista.
The Nabesna Road
For several days the weather remained overcast and the clouds lay just over our heads, but such minor concerns never deter the adventuresome. After watching the Wrangell - St. Elias National Forest film twice (it was very good), we changed our plans. Instead of heading for a nice campground with showers, we bounced down a gravel road into the wilderness. We successfully forded two creek beds but turned back when the next one appeared to be deeper and boisterous. Here we are, about 28 miles down the Nabesna Road, the only ones in the clouds. Thanks to FSK for photo.
Where's Grandpa?
While we were in Valdez the clouds began rolling in, obscuring all the enormous mountains around us. As we crossed Thompson Pass, we stopped to look at the Alpine wild flowers and almost lost a few of our family members in the mist. People living in Alaska tell us that a normal sky is grey and cloudy. They call clear sky, "blue clouds".
How about those waterfalls
Nature and Man
Voyage of the Intrepid
Sage of Johna Lake
Reality
It was very relaxing to sit by the lake and watch a nest of peregrine chicks tear apart their meals. formerly known as ravens and rodents. When we tired of their blood thirsty mayhem, we watched the placid ducks and the lake. In the course of these peaceful meditations we learned that when you stare at the water too long it becomes difficult to tell which part is the reflection.
Wagons Ho
Unfortunately, we do not have any pictures of our trip across the Top of the World Highway. It was an exciting ride along the edge of a mountain ridge. Sixty miles of winding gravel road with no guard rails and a scenic view straight down. When we passed the highest point, a small building appeared. There we had the "how yuh doin - have a nice day" US Customs Inspection. Passing muster, we bounced down the road into Alaska and a beautiful camp site overlooking Johna Lake.
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Road hog
After several days of fruitless watching for animals that never appeared, we became cynical and mildly hostile to the road signs warning us that there were moose behind the bushes and elk at every turn. When the "Watch for bison on road" sign rolled past we snorted, only to come around the turn and find BISON in our lane. They were in no hurry to yield. This big boy has just moved to block traffic in the other lane.
Cinnamon bun tour
Searching for wild life and soaking in hot springs were only pleasant distractions to our real mission; tracking down the notorious AlCan cinnamon roll. Reported to be delicious in excess, these highly prized specimens are reported to hide in their natural habitat of gas stations and road side stores. We found and tried three. This one was clearly the best. It was as wide as a dinner plate and as deep as a small cake. It fed 4 for lunch and three for breakfast. Now it is gone but still remembered fondly.
Hot Springs
We were fortunate and found lovely campsites in parks, avoiding the unpleasant civilization of RV lots. Liard Springs State Park was a wonderful place. A short hike from the campsite brought us to a trail through the marsh land. Further down the path were two hot springs in the woods. The water was remarkably blue and quite warm. There was some sulfur to it, but it seemed mild compared to the healing waters we enjoy at Riverside Boat yard.
Togetherness
Yellow Fields of Alberta
Bears, wolves, and ...
Yearning for a glimpse of the great animals of the park, bear, moose, and elk, we stayed awake scanning the road side as we traveled. Our preoccupation made it difficult for the smaller, more humble animals to attract our attention. Hubert the ground squirrel was an exception. He ran up Vinnie's leg looking for snacks and then hung around, posing and chattering while we had lunch.
Surrounded by beauty
It was time to leave the Canadian Rockies and we spent our last night on the Snaring River. Near miraculous driving by Vinnie squeezed our lumbering beast into a tiny parking space at one of the premier spots on the river. Here we relax with snacks and a beer as we celebrate our good fortune. This photograph (Thanks FSK - Maria's dad) captures the glorious country surrounding us as we graze.
Maligne Canyon
Before leaving Jasper and the Canadian Rockies, we took a side trip to Maligne canyon and more glacier fed mountain lakes. We'll spare you the lakes. The canyon was wonderful and remarkable. Unfortunately, what makes it unique also challenges the photographer. Our pictures could not capture the canyon's unusual profile. It is over 100 feet deep and only 6 to 8 feet across here.
Roadside Attractions
Eventually we became jaded to mountains and valleys and canyons and all. So, the sight of a real wild animal was the high point of a day. This big horn mountain sheep held his position in our lane of traffic early one morning until we broke out the cameras. Even after retreating to a superior hill side position, he maintained a regal manner.
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