Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Mystery message


While walking near an old cannery, we found these mysterious symbols on the sidewalk. Were they ancient Athabascan, pictographs from the Dena'ina, or Russian shorthand? Thoughtful examination showed that the markings were left by seagulls with muddy feet.

Room with a view


If you wander far enough, sometimes you find something interesting. Three miles down the beach from our campsite, we found this cliff perch. Climb a ladder and you're home.

A bad omen?


While we wandered, happy and mindless, a warning appeared. Are these the red leaves of Autumn?

Captain Cook Inlet


From Kenai we traveled north to a lovely campground with views of Redoubt, Mt Spurr, and Mt. McKinley from 170 miles away. There were also some great rocks off the beach.

Father Makary


Father Makery was the parish priest at Holy Assumption until 1991. He remembers accompanying the relics of St. Herman, the first American saint in the Russian Orthodox Church, when they were moved from Kodiak Island to Kenai. Father Makary says that some relics have traveled by land and others by sea, but the relics of St. Herman were the first to be transported by air; he flew in a helicopter.

The Russians came and stayed


In the town of Kenai we found the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Russian Orthodox Church, which was established in 1849. Archpriest Makary Targonsky gave us a tour and a brief introduction to the history of the Russian Orthodox church in Alaska.

It's cold


We touched the glacier, photographed the glacier, and did not get hit by debris. Success.

Glacier face


A short hike brought us up to the foot of another glacier. Landslides had left a layer of gravel and stone on the surface and as the glacier moved, these projectiles advanced to the edge and fell on the heads of unsuspecting hikers who came too close.

The glaciers are calving



After escaping from the smiling bear, we went down to a lake and found that the icebergs calving off the glaciers and heading south. We wondered, what had those cows and glaciers been doing?

Grandma and Grandpa meet Yogi


Unfortunately, this picture is clear evidence of Grandparent abuse. Those who know Stuart and Thelma are well aware that only harsh measures could force them to poise with a fake bear. Grandpa may be smiling, but that's because Grandma has to sit with the bear.

Bear Poop


On the Kenai we found beautiful campgrounds near glaciers, lakes, and waterfalls; (the usual Alaska stuff). Although we've seen moose and black bear and Dall sheep and Stone sheep and Rocky Mountain big horn sheep and elk and bison and caribou, the wily brown bear has still escaped our inspection. That is why this pile of bear scat (shit) was very exciting. If you look carefully, bits of a plastic bag and vegetable matter are evident. These suggest that this enormous pile of scat comes from an enormous brown bear with a taste for sandwiches (heavy on the mustard) and berries. We loitered nearby with cheese and crackers, but again missed seeing the bear.

Fireweed


After two days in the wilderness, the showers and Laundromat stopped calling our names and began hollering. We left St. Elias and stayed for a night in an RV den to meet our basic hygiene needs, then returned to the road. Heading west and south for the Kenai peninsula, there were mountains, glaciers, and flowers everywhere. We wondered if the Alaska department of tourism had carefully arranged Fireweed to decorate every mountain vista.

The Nabesna Road


For several days the weather remained overcast and the clouds lay just over our heads, but such minor concerns never deter the adventuresome. After watching the Wrangell - St. Elias National Forest film twice (it was very good), we changed our plans. Instead of heading for a nice campground with showers, we bounced down a gravel road into the wilderness. We successfully forded two creek beds but turned back when the next one appeared to be deeper and boisterous. Here we are, about 28 miles down the Nabesna Road, the only ones in the clouds. Thanks to FSK for photo.

Where's Grandpa?


While we were in Valdez the clouds began rolling in, obscuring all the enormous mountains around us. As we crossed Thompson Pass, we stopped to look at the Alpine wild flowers and almost lost a few of our family members in the mist. People living in Alaska tell us that a normal sky is grey and cloudy. They call clear sky, "blue clouds".

How about those waterfalls


Since we've seen hundreds of waterfalls, have way too many boring waterfall photographs, and haven't abused you with any of them yet; the time has come. This is Horsetail Falls near Valdez. You are now absolved from any further waterfalls pictures, until we change our mind.

Nature and Man


Valdez, setting between the Chugach mountains and the sea, is a place of incredible natural beauty. It also carries clear evidence of human occupation.

Voyage of the Intrepid


We traveled south towards Valdez and set up camp in the beautiful Chugach mountains, near a ridge overlooking the entire world.

Sage of Johna Lake


A two day stay at the lake also gave us time to talk with the camp host, Denny who is a master of story telling and perhaps of the universe as well. He enlightened us with the news that moose are not carnivorous and that we should next travel to Valdez. So far, Denny has been proven right.

Reality


It was very relaxing to sit by the lake and watch a nest of peregrine chicks tear apart their meals. formerly known as ravens and rodents. When we tired of their blood thirsty mayhem, we watched the placid ducks and the lake. In the course of these peaceful meditations we learned that when you stare at the water too long it becomes difficult to tell which part is the reflection.

Wagons Ho


Unfortunately, we do not have any pictures of our trip across the Top of the World Highway. It was an exciting ride along the edge of a mountain ridge. Sixty miles of winding gravel road with no guard rails and a scenic view straight down. When we passed the highest point, a small building appeared. There we had the "how yuh doin - have a nice day" US Customs Inspection. Passing muster, we bounced down the road into Alaska and a beautiful camp site overlooking Johna Lake.

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Road hog


After several days of fruitless watching for animals that never appeared, we became cynical and mildly hostile to the road signs warning us that there were moose behind the bushes and elk at every turn. When the "Watch for bison on road" sign rolled past we snorted, only to come around the turn and find BISON in our lane. They were in no hurry to yield. This big boy has just moved to block traffic in the other lane.

Cinnamon bun tour

Searching for wild life and soaking in hot springs were only pleasant distractions to our real mission; tracking down the notorious AlCan cinnamon roll. Reported to be delicious in excess, these highly prized specimens are reported to hide in their natural habitat of gas stations and road side stores. We found and tried three. This one was clearly the best. It was as wide as a dinner plate and as deep as a small cake. It fed 4 for lunch and three for breakfast. Now it is gone but still remembered fondly.

Hot Springs

We were fortunate and found lovely campsites in parks, avoiding the unpleasant civilization of RV lots. Liard Springs State Park was a wonderful place. A short hike from the campsite brought us to a trail through the marsh land. Further down the path were two hot springs in the woods. The water was remarkably blue and quite warm. There was some sulfur to it, but it seemed mild compared to the healing waters we enjoy at Riverside Boat yard.

Togetherness


The RV is plenty big for all of us, but when you put several photographers in one place, sometimes you just have to say no.

Yellow Fields of Alberta


After almost a week, we left the National Parks. With the mountains behind us, we took the AlCan highway and entered the flat plains of Canada. These brilliant yellow fields are planted in Canola.

Bears, wolves, and ...


Yearning for a glimpse of the great animals of the park, bear, moose, and elk, we stayed awake scanning the road side as we traveled. Our preoccupation made it difficult for the smaller, more humble animals to attract our attention. Hubert the ground squirrel was an exception. He ran up Vinnie's leg looking for snacks and then hung around, posing and chattering while we had lunch.

Surrounded by beauty


It was time to leave the Canadian Rockies and we spent our last night on the Snaring River. Near miraculous driving by Vinnie squeezed our lumbering beast into a tiny parking space at one of the premier spots on the river. Here we relax with snacks and a beer as we celebrate our good fortune. This photograph (Thanks FSK - Maria's dad) captures the glorious country surrounding us as we graze.

Maligne Canyon


Before leaving Jasper and the Canadian Rockies, we took a side trip to Maligne canyon and more glacier fed mountain lakes. We'll spare you the lakes. The canyon was wonderful and remarkable. Unfortunately, what makes it unique also challenges the photographer. Our pictures could not capture the canyon's unusual profile.  It is over 100 feet deep and only 6 to 8 feet across here.

Roadside Attractions


Eventually we became jaded to mountains and valleys and canyons and all. So, the sight of a real wild animal was the high point of a day. This big horn mountain sheep held his position in our lane of traffic early one morning until we broke out the cameras. Even after retreating to a superior hill side position, he maintained a regal manner.

Wilcox Pass Glacier


Wilcox Pass brought us to a great vantage point on the great Athabasca Glacier.